Thursday, October 23, 2025

Artists Illuminate Environmental Implications of Textile Waste at The Refuge * By Debo Oladimeji 25 February 2024

 A groundbreaking textile pavilion debuted at the 4th Lagos Biennial, created by four international artists in collaboration with designer Adebola Badmus, Founder and Creative Director of DSA Lagos. The project, titled Re-(t)exHile, aimed to highlight the pressing issue of textile waste and the influx of second-hand goods into Nigeria. The pavilion’s centerpiece was a striking display of colorful second-hand clothing, locally known as okirika, meticulously stitched together to form a marquee. The installation served as a poignant reminder that Nigeria is not a dumping ground for unwanted clothing from the West. Visitors were captivated, sparking discussions about the environmental and social impact of second-hand clothing. Badmus explained: “Our clients introduced us to these four talented artists who shared our commitment to sustainability. Together, we embarked on a journey to address the pressing issue of textile waste and its impact on our society.” Artist Maria Alejandra Gatti noted, “We’ve been working on this project for almost four years, exploring the intersection of refuges and textiles. Our goal is to create a dialogue around harmful practices in textile dumping and the need for systemic change.” Martinka Bobrikova added, “We wanted to highlight the urgency in Nigeria and the role of Western countries in perpetuating this cycle. Through collaboration, we aim to shed light on the environmental and social impacts of textile consumption.” Oscar de Carmen emphasized, “The issue stems from Western consumerism and its disregard for the consequences of textile waste. Confronting this reality is essential to enact meaningful change.”

Spanish architect-artist Anto Lloveras shared insights on their process: “Last year, the four of us conducted a research expedition in Lagos to gather materials. Guided by the theme REFUGE, textiles emerged as the core medium for our message.” Lloveras described procuring 500 pieces of second- and third-hand clothing at Katangwa Market, which were deconstructed and reassembled into the pavilion’s textile skin—a minimalist structure situated near the iconic horses of Tafawa Balewa Square, symbolizing the nation’s strength. The collaborators hope their work inspires responsible consumption, encourages systemic change in fashion, and fosters sustainability awareness globally. The final textile piece will be re-exported to the Global North for repurposing in public programs promoting sustainable practices. This project was made possible with support from sponsors committed to sustainability and the arts, including the Office for Contemporary Art Norway (OCA), Slovak Art Council, Embassy of Spain in Nigeria, and the Programme for the Internationalisation of Spanish Culture (PICE).